Two Worlds, One Place

An Irish doctor here at Port St. John's used "Two Worlds, One Place" to describe South Africa. It encapsulates this entire country. First world sits right up against third world, an hour drive from the tropics of Port Stepson brings you to mountains roads with snow along its shoulders. A visit to a remarkably poor school for blacks is followed up five minutes later by a lunch in a lodge that would be the envy of the best in Sonoma.

At the four schools we have visited there is a commitment to education that is palpable, but in the three black schools there is an excitement and enthusiasm that is difficult to put into words. Two days ago we visited a school where a group of 5th grade boys sang with an energy that I had not seen equaled, until a few minutes later when the 8th grade girls danced with a joy and fervor that was nothing short of remarkable. The videos are too large to upload from here but even they cannot capture the energy of either experience. The whistles and the drums, the music and the chanting, the shear excitement can only be felt when you are in the room with them.

We visited an organic farm project that is providing opportunity for 22 women and 2 men and a school in the center of Port Shepston that has white, colored, and black students. Our guide for both was Pauline Duncan, a long time activist with strong connections to the black community and committed to building the nation for all its citizens.

Today Douglas C. carved me a walking stick sitting under a tree as we met his family. I find myself torn between two desires; to record what we see in pictures and to respect the persons that we see. There is a dignity here, as there is everywhere, that makes you wince at treating them as tourist attractions. Still, I find myself asking others for copies of the pictures I was hesitant to take.

This afternoon we spent the time in the town square, the only non-blacks in view. I am typing this blog in a bar with whites and a black bartender (and Amy, a Chinese American on our team). We sit side by side at the bar just a little while after I was sitting next to Douglas under that tree while he carved my walking stick. They are a world away and a five minute drive apart. Or, as the good Irish doctor said, "Two worlds, one place."